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The first mourning type of jewelry was Memento Mori. These objects were more overtly associated with symbols of death including skulls, skeletons, and even coffins. The message in these pieces wasn’t actually morbid, however. They signified being mindful of death and encouraged living a righteous life.
https://www.collectorsweekly.com/fine-jewelry/mourning
Mourning jewelry has been around since at least the 16th century, but it is widely associated with the Victorian Era, when mass production made it affordable. The trend reached its high point after the death of Prince Albert in 1861, when Queen Victoria, as well as members of her court, wore black clothing and matching mourning jewelry for decades.
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